512 Specs

Specifications:

I'm not much of a "specs" person, but this question is asked often. Specifications are often changing so keeping a list up to date can be challenging. That said…:

The car is a 1967 Fastback Mustang, originally built in San Jose. The front fenders and hood are all light weight fiberglass. The interior of the car is basically non existent; anything that does not need to be present in a road race has been removed (other than the passenger seat and belts!). The door glass and hardware has also been removed and the rear window is a flush mounted piece of Lexan.

Engine:

The engine is currently being re-engineered.... .

Transmission:

The transmission is a Tex Racing T101A which uses a dog ring type selection and straight cut gears for extremely quick gear selection and high strength respectively. I’m still learning how to use this transmission, but I can promise that I’ll never look back to the old synchro style transmissions!

The Rest of the Drive Line:

The driveshaft is an Aluminum 3.5” Coleman part, with 1350 joints at the shaft and (for now) 1310 joints at the outer trans yoke and the axle. The rear end is a 9” ford that uses either a 4:30 gear set or a 3:89 depending on the track, and a DPI Platinum Half Tight LSD system. The clutch is a triple plate, 8 rivet, 7.25” Tilton unit with magnesium bell housing and hydraulic bearing.

Suspension:

The front suspension has been slightly altered with the use Koni 90 series coil over shocks, mounted near the upper ball joint. This allows the shock more resolution, and at the same time allows for a softer spring to be used. The spring is now 550lb and only 2.5" ID x 8" tall. The strut rod has also been replaced. The stock strut rod requires deformation of huge rubber bushings in order for the suspension to travel through its range of motion. I replaced this with a system that uses a rod end (at the front of the rod) and a clevis to mount it to the lower control arm. This allows the suspension to move through its range easily, and removes the rubber bushings from the strut rod (which can cause unwanted movement of the lower control arm under braking). Next on the list to do, is to replace both the upper and lower arms with much stronger pieces - and likely change the geometry completely.

Alignment Settings:
(2009 @ Sears Point)
Toe in: 3/16" measured at tire (contemplating trying toe out)
Camber: LF = 2.4, RF = 2.8 (need to find a few more degrees on the left side)
Caster: 5.4* (equal on both sides) Tire is well forward in the wheel house

The front suspension at this time is basically stock with Koni Shocks, .620 springs. and the standard Arning upper arm drop. Completely re-designing the front suspension is the next major project planned for the 2010 season.

The rear suspension has just been completed. The leaf springs have been removed in favor of my own 3-link suspension design using coil over (Koni) shocks. Of course the rear suspension geometry was modeled and designed in Matlab as well, using Autodesk Inventor to provide the “CAD” data.

Brakes:

The brakes on this car are a little “overdone”. The front brakes are a 6 piston Alcon caliper on a 14” floating rotor. The rear brakes are a 4 piston Alcon caliper mounted on a fixed 13” rotor. They are actuated by a floppy Wilwood pedal assy and balance bar. Each end of the car has its own master cylinder that is mounted under the dash area with the reservoirs mounted in the cabin of the car.

Wheels / Tires:

The wheels are made by Jongbloed, and are 18x11 front and rear. The tires of I run are Pirelli 305/645/18.

Chassis:

The rear clip was made by Chris Alston’s Chassisworks and connected to the front clip via welded sub frame connectors. The front clip is stock. The roll cage passes through both the front and rear firewalls to tie into the frame and shock tower mounts.





Specifications: I'm not much of a "specs" person, but this question is asked often. Specifications are often changing so keeping a list up to date can be challenging. That said…: The car is a 1967 Fastback Mustang, originally built in San Jose. The front fenders and hood are all light weight fiberglass. The interior of the car is basically non existent; anything that does not need to be present in a road race has been removed (other than the passenger seat and belts!). The door glass and hardware has also been removed and the rear window is a flush mounted piece of Lexan. Engine: The engine is currently being re-engineered.... . Transmission: The transmission is a Tex Racing T101A which uses a dog ring type selection and straight cut gears for extremely quick gear selection and high strength respectively. I’m still learning how to use this transmission, but I can promise that I’ll never look back to the old synchro style transmissions! The Rest of the Drive Line: The driveshaft is an Aluminum 3.5” Coleman part, with 1350 joints at the shaft and (for now) 1310 joints at the outer trans yoke and the axle. The rear end is a 9” ford that uses either a 4:30 gear set or a 3:89 depending on the track, and a DPI Platinum Half Tight LSD system. The clutch is a triple plate, 8 rivet, 7.25” Tilton unit with magnesium bell housing and hydraulic bearing. Suspension: The front suspension has been slightly altered with the use Koni 90 series coil over shocks, mounted near the upper ball joint. This allows the shock more resolution, and at the same time allows for a softer spring to be used. The spring is now 550lb and only 2.5" ID x 8" tall. The strut rod has also been replaced. The stock strut rod requires deformation of huge rubber bushings in order for the suspension to travel through its range of motion. I replaced this with a system that uses a rod end (at the front of the rod) and a clevis to mount it to the lower control arm. This allows the suspension to move through its range easily, and removes the rubber bushings from the strut rod (which can cause unwanted movement of the lower control arm under braking). Next on the list to do, is to replace both the upper and lower arms with much stronger pieces - and likely change the geometry completely. Alignment Settings: (2009 @ Sears Point) Toe in: 3/16" measured at tire (contemplating trying toe out) Camber: LF = 2.4, RF = 2.8 (need to find a few more degrees on the left side) Caster: 5.4* (equal on both sides) Tire is well forward in the wheel house The front suspension at this time is basically stock with Koni Shocks, .620 springs. and the standard Arning upper arm drop. Completely re-designing the front suspension is the next major project planned for the 2010 season. The rear suspension has just been completed. The leaf springs have been removed in favor of my own 3-link suspension design using coil over (Koni) shocks. Of course the rear suspension geometry was modeled and designed in Matlab as well, using Autodesk Inventor to provide the “CAD” data. Brakes: The brakes on this car are a little “overdone”. The front brakes are a 6 piston Alcon caliper on a 14” floating rotor. The rear brakes are a 4 piston Alcon caliper mounted on a fixed 13” rotor. They are actuated by a floppy Wilwood pedal assy and balance bar. Each end of the car has its own master cylinder that is mounted under the dash area with the reservoirs mounted in the cabin of the car. Wheels / Tires: The wheels are made by Jongbloed, and are 18x11 front and rear. The tires of I run are Pirelli 305/645/18. Chassis: The rear clip was made by Chris Alston’s Chassisworks and connected to the front clip via welded sub frame connectors. The front clip is stock. The roll cage passes through both the front and rear firewalls to tie into the frame and shock tower mounts.