This is where I keep my log of pre event and post event notes and to do lists; it is not my intention for this page to make much sense to others.
Post Event Notes: SAAC35
Engine: Ran strong, seems to rev a tad quicker, and the timing is very stable with the timing belt rather than the chain. The belt does make a bit of a "belt whine" but it's not bad.
Suspension: This was the first event with my new front suspension. It's a completely different animal. Even in the pits, the car steers with athority and easily - I'm assuming the major contributing factor here is the ~1 inch scrub radius. On track, it felt a bit strange for Friday and Saturday. I tried a few different roll center settings (I can raise and lower both the upper and lower ball joints at the spindle). I was having a very strange issue: Straigt line stability was terrible - turn in to the left was terrible - turn in to the right was great. Pretty scary actually. Terry and I spent a lot of time checking and rechecking the front alignment. Late Saturday night while everyone was going to sleep I decided to check the rear end alignment - and found it to be pointing the wrong direction. The rear traction arm mount had slipped (bent locating bolt!) and the rear was now steering the rear end of the car away from a left turn. I fixed this then went to sleep. The next morning the car felt fantastic for two laps - then one of the rear axles broke leaving me stranded on the inside of turn one during the race warmup session.
Seat: Yes I still need a seat.
Note: 7.15 degree ball joints: k6024, k6136, k772 (I'm sure there are more). k772 is the standard Mustang II upper and lower, and is the same as upper in my truck.
7/21/10 - I have new wheels for the car. 18 x 10.5 305 Aero made by Jongbloed. They're on their way here as I type. I'm very excited. I've been working very hard to design a decent front suspension around the old PSE wheels (I was going to have the front wheels re-barreled to 11" wide to match the rears) but the lack of caliper clearance to the wheel spokes wouldn't allow for both a decent SAI and Scrub Radius. With the Jongbloed wheels, I can run a much shallower brake hat, pushing the caliper out closer to the outside of the wheel, which allows me to keep the SAI very low and at the same time keep the scrub radius in check.
To Do: SAAC 35
SAAC-35 - Vintage Race Prep.
Engine: Engine is currently apart for rings, bearings, seals and inspection. I'm thinking about using a timing belt rather than a timing chain. I'm tired of the chain stretch. Valves are all tuliped - likely from the excessive heat at Sears Point last year. The timing was quite advanced and the weather was hot.
Suspension: I'm very pleased with the rear suspension, it will remain untouched - unless I have the time and funds to change the rear axle to a full floating hub. The front suspension is currently in design stages - and will hopefully be ready for the event. I've decided that the spindle is the weak link in the suspension - both in terms of geometry and strength. I'd like to build a spindle that will be much stiffer, and place the lower ball joint much lower in the wheel. This will allow me to lower the top ball joint so I can put the spindle inside the wheel - allowing for much better scrub radius. The FVIC is also super short on my car as it currently sits - which needs addressing.
Seats: It's time for a full containment seat. The seats in the car now are nice, but I'm noticing that I'm working very hard in the car to hold my body still in the turns. I sat in Sittner's TCP car the other day, and the Ultrashield 20* layback, full containment will work for me. I'd like a 16.5" seat, but I think I'll have to go for a 17" seat and add some padding in the hips.
Brakes. Brakes are good. I would like to redo the lines, remove the prop valve from the rear lines, and install a 2lb residual valve in the rear. I can probably leave the valve out if I use the full floating hubs in the rear.
Tires / wheels. I need more tire up front. I'd like to run an 18" rim, but I'm having trouble finding a wheel that I like - and justifying the cost to change. The bigger dia wheel allows a better selection of race rubber.
Fuel Cell. Needs to be replaced. Find one, put it in.
Fire System. Needs to be done - Find a bottle and plumb it in.
Post event: Sears Point, November 22, 2009
Brakes: Brake pedal is now dependable! I installed a 2lb wilwood residual valve in the front brake line, and this has cured the double pump of the pedal after high G force turns. Pedal was solid and did not require a pump before working.
Engine is smoking a bit. The rear main seal is leaking, and I need to do a leak down test to determine if rings or valve seals are leaking. Also smells a bit rich, though I didn't run the air:fuel logger to verify.
The day was quite cold, actually wet in the morning. My turn in points were all delayed a bit, and I was not comfortable accelerating as early as I am used to. Lap times hovered in the 1:52 to 1:53 area most of the day.
Rubber valve cover gaskets worked much better than the cork gaskets. I also safety wired the valve cover bolts.
Tire pressures hot were 32 front 30 rear. May have not been ideal for the colder temps (60 or so degrees F max).
Ran with rear brake proportioning valve @ full tight (most rear brake) all day. Rear danced around a little on hard braking into turn 7.
Note: 11/12/09
Intake valves were tight. Exh valves slightly tight as well, were ~.017. Lash was reset to .020 cold I and E.
Note about hyd brake prop valve: Clockwise to close increases rear brake - allowing more rear brake pressure. Counter Clockwise lowers knee break point pressure...
Measured 11.75 turns total, was running @ 10.75 turns from full close = knee point almost as low as possible.
To Do: Sears Point 11/2009
_Remove passenger seat: this is a single day event, and I need to spend some time getting to know the car in it's latest state.
_Replace Panhard Rod! Use larger bar, and larger rod ends.
_Check valve springs and adjust valves.
_check timing chain play
_remove cork valve cover gaskets and use new rubber gaskets.
_woud be nice to check clutch (slipped twice during one session, but I believe it was due to oil leaking from valve covers).
_would be nice to change rear main seal.
_plugs
_check timing curv. Noticed slight lack of power at lower rpm (bogging a bit) exiting turn 5 at T-hill.
_would like to try slightly more spring in the rear suspension, and lower rear a tad
_would like to replace all brake lines, remove the prop valve in the rear line - maybe replace it with a 2lb residual valve. Also may install 2lb res valve in front line. If I crack the lines, consider using slightly larger front master cylinder.
Post event notes: Thunderhill 10.17/18.2009
I need to spend some time alone in the car to get used to the recent changes. I gave only three rides last weekend, and that felt nice. I love giving rides, but I've noticed when I do I'm not improving - instead I'm being extra safe and not experimenting. When I was alone in the car I was able to play with lines, gears, braking points and accel points. I found that I can accel hard right after the apex of 9, and get very light at the top of the hill. This helps with the problem of the car being real touchy under accel after the top of 9 - either because I'm going faster at that point, or the car is in a different torque band (likely a bit of both).
The cork valve cover gaskets are leaking. I may need to make new valve covers with a thicker sealing base. I did try the new rubber gasket on the drivers side, and that seemed to seal nicely. I'll try these on both sides of the car for the next event.
I missed third gear (not inserted all the way...) on the back straight and really over revved the engine. We (terry and I) slowed down, made sure oil pressure was good and the car sounded ok, then slowly got back into it. I need to be more careful during shifting, especially when I'm pushing a bit. I did notice that I'm getting off the gas a bit too much during shifts, and the trans is clunking a bit much. I should check into the rear ring gear lash, and be sure that is still in spec...
When I got home, and pulled the car off the trailer I noticed the panhard bar is bent - and loose! I have not yet pulled it apart, but it appears that the rod end on the frame side has started stripping threads in the panhard bar. I can wiggle the car side to side a small bit, and watch the bar move about the rod end. Very scary. This bar is the same that has been on the car since 96, and is 1" dia and uses .5" rod ends. I'm planning to replace it with a bigger bar and more importantly, more substantial .75" rod ends. To do so I will have to modify both the frame and axle mounts.
Brakes: I learned that I've simply not been using the brakes enough. I have separated the braking problems to three different issues:
1) spindle flex.
2) Master Cylinder Volume
3) Not using the brakes hard enough.
1... the front spindles do flex. I am now using a floating rotor assy, which seems to help a bit, but not completely.
2... the front master cylinder does not have enough volume to take up the separation of the pads (the spindles flexing pushes the pads away from the rotor).
3... I've not been using the brakes hard enough. The pedal pulsing goes away if I can get the rotors up to temp by braking solidly rather than easing into the brakes. I read a maximum of 2.45G of braking force (likely down hill where the accelerometer is biased - already), even with the added negative bias the braking force is very strong. Rotors and pads look better than when lightly braking. There is less brake dust and the rotors have some color to them. I believe when I was brushing the brakes rather than stabbing them, the rotors were not coming up to temp enough to promote a transfer layer of pad material to the rotor.
For brake problems 1 & 2, I need to get some more stout spindles to stop the flexing, and I can also try a slightly larger master cylinder. I'd rather fix the spindle flex first - but a bigger master is much easier and less expensive to do. A larger MC on the front = more foot force (though less throw) to get the same clamping force at the caliper.
Under heaving braking in a straight line, I noticed the rear dances around a bit. Maybe I can pull a little rear brake out, but I also feel excessive dive in braking. It feels like there is a lot of weight transfer to the front wheels under braking. Possibly I can add some anti-dive to the front suspension - but I don't think this will change the rear wanting to get light under braking. The Center of Gravity needs to get closer to the ground.... How - I'm not sure yet. I've already got everything as low as I can get it without big fender flares....
Tire wear looks fantastic! Front tires now have two complete events on them, and look about as worn as they used to after one weekend. With out the spool in the rear end, the front tires are being pushed around the track much less. I should be able to get at least one more weekend out of the front tires.
Right Rear tires was new for this event, left rear tire is same age as front tires (two days older than right rear).
Changed from Royal Purple oil to Amsoil. Uses three gallons and one quart to fill a dry system.
During Event notes: Thunderhill 10.17.09
Front right tire rubbing. Raised right front by .25" by adding shim beneath lower spring mount.
Hot tire pressures: 34Front, 32Rear. Car feels great through turn two - much better than with spool....
10.18.09...
Clutch not fully disengaging...
Post Event Notes: Sears Point 8-29/30-2009
Tire pressures: 32 hot front, 30 hot rear. Saturday engine temps were very hot, found Sunday morning that ignition was advanced to 38degrees! I backed this back down to about 33, 34 and engine ran much better and cooler. Sat temps were about 104, Sunday was 15 or so degrees cooler.
New for this event was: DPI Platinum Track rear end, New strut rods (made them myself, solid mount with rod end), Coil over shocks with 550lb spring mounted to top control arm (shock mount near the upper ball joint), and floating front rotors.
Brakes: the front rotors worked pretty well. They stayed together, wear looks good. The problem that I was hoping to cure by floating the front rotors was helped, but not fully cured. I am now looking for other reasons for the pedal to require a pump before the brake is firm. I did notice that sometimes the pedal felt a little low and soft, but braking was still very good. Could the rear be pushing the pads away, requiring the extra pump? Not enough volume of fluid by the master to move all 6 pistons in the front calipers? Maybe a smaller front caliper would be better? Anti-knockback springs? Residual Valves?
Tires: Tires were new for this event. Hoosier R6. Front wear looked great, as did rear. Damaged one rear tire (probably good as a spare) when the bar that locates the top third link bracket broke (allowing the axle to tilt back and ran the tire into the fender). The bar that broke was not welded 360* around. It appears I forgot to weld the back side of the bar. I did plan to gusset this area, but had forgot.
Suspension: Rear:
Felt a little slip under hard early acceleration. Maybe adjust shock to allow better stick? I am not sure where I left the rebound setting, likely at 50%. It was easy to 'catch'.
Front: Felt very good. Car was much better to steer under braking, likely because the new rod end strut rods. Rebound at 50%. 550lb spring.
Alignment:
Caster @ 5.4 degrees (setup pad was .4 degrees rear high). This may be a bit much, as everyone else seems to be using 3 or so degrees.
Camber: Left front was 2.4, right front maxed at 2.8.
Toe: 3/16 inch tow in, measured at tire (front and back)
Limited Slip:
The DPI took a little bit of getting used to, entrance of corner was nice and easy, driving through the turns was easy (no front push unless of course I pushed it too hard). Exit was a little different, seemed like I had to turn a bit more at exit of turn than before. Overall a very very good change!
The car drove very fast on sunday, with out much extra effort, which is exactly what I've been trying to accomplish. Per video, I ran two consecutive 1:47 laps with a passenger. I believe the previous session may have had one or two faster laps, possibly 1:46 or so, but the video camera was not in the car for that session. I need to make more effort to have the video camera ready, charged, installed with a fresh tape.
Black Flag. I received my first black flag, the second to last session on Sunday. Passed a Miata in the outside of turn two, my closing speed on him was quite high, I didn't expect him to still be there. The pass felt clean and easy, the turn worker thought it was a little scary.
Traffic: WAY TOO MUCH TRAFFIC. This event did not have a blue group. There were quite a lot of cars, and no good effort to stagger the start..
Must do before next event:
Fix broken third link bracket. Brace and would like to install diag bar at the same time, since the seats will be out.
Mill 01 pads to fit
Try to figure out brake issue.
Change oil: Maybe Amsoil?
Would like to:
Remove brake prop valve from rear.
New lower and upper control arms.
New spindles?
Front Splitter for T-hill. Maybe shape from foam, then glass. Use plastic for splitter. Make removable for loading.
Look into:
18" rims.
Think of what to do to lower car even further.
Check oil level. Seemed like motor may be burning oil a little bit, or the level in the can changes after sitting for a while (likely, as the can is high).
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Notes before SPIR 2009
AFCO # 20034 may be a screw in ball joint that can be used as a LBJ. Better design if coil over spring mounts on LBJ. Stock LBJ is not designed for such load..
Spring rate * sin (90-angle) * (lever) = motion ratio. Square for wheel rate.
65% vs 86% installed spring / arm ratio
450lb spring, with .86 install ratio =
Wheel Rate: 333 (lbs/in)
Freq = 130 CPM
Motion Ratio = .740
700lb spring, with .65 installed ratio (stock config)
Wheel Rate: 296
Freq: 123 CPM
Motion Ratio = .423
750lb spring @ .86 install ratio
Wheel Rate: 555
Freq:168 CPM
Motion Ratio = .740
To Do: 8-16-09:
Rotors:
Rotors are ordered from Coleman.
Dims:
A=1.250 (thick)
B=14 (OD)
C=8.215 (front face ID)
D=10.00 (rear face ID)
E1 = .5" (slot width for floating bobbin)
E2 = 12 slots
F = 9.38" (slot tip to tip dim. = .630 + 8.75)
G = .200 (hat flange thickness)
H through K = 0 (steps)
Other parts to order:
_T locks for front floating rotors
_1350 to 1310 conversion U-joint
_drilled bolts (1/4 / 20) x 24 for hats
_Front and Rear tires (buy and mount/balance)
_get seals for front hubs
_cork Valve Cover Gaskets - ask Ray...
To Do:
_Mill bolt circle into HATs.
_mill pads flat????
_Replace all front wheel bearings and seals
_Fill rearend with OIL. Call DPI about friction modifier amt.
_Lock right rear coil spring adjuster
_swap drive shaft yokes. Does this allow both DS to be useable? Spare shaft needs rear yoke and u-joint replaced in order to be used.
_adjust Oil Pressure bypass.
_install cork Valve cover gaskets!!
_inspect EVERYTHING.
Notes:
Rear brake bias sticker added for direction of adjustment. Bias was 22 clicks from full front. 55 clicks are available. I reset bias to 10 clicks from full front. Check to be sure the M/C pushrods are adjusted properly as soon as rotors and pads are on the car.
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To Do for next event (sometime 2009):
Tires:
_Front and Rear need to be replaced!
Fuel Cell:
_Would like to replace the current cell with Fuel Safe or ATI or similar. Current cell is old, and.... plastic!
Seats:
_Would like to replace seats - I need to decide 10 or 20 degree layback. I think I'd be best off with the 10* seat.
_also would like to look into Hans device or similar... for both 616 and 512.
Brakes:
_Would like to have new Front Rotors and Hats (allowing a spare set).
_Check front hubs, and rotors for warp. Turn old rotors, and replace hubs if needed.
_Remove proportioning valve from rear brake line
_Install 2lb residual valves front and rear
_Look into DPI Sure stop
_Replace wheel bearings (inner) and purchase spares for tool box. Used spares at last event.
Drive Shaft:
Have damaged shaft fixed and balanced. Rear yoke mount on DS needs to be replaced. Rear U-Joint needs to be replaced. DS needs to be balanced!!!
Call Coleman - was their DS balanced??????? UPDATE: Called Coleman, yes their Drive shaft was balanced - they don't use external weights.
Look into using new coleman shaft with 1350 to 1310 conversion u-joint - allowing 1310 yoke to fit. Not enough clearance with 1350 trans yoke - as yoke is shorter in length. Sell old yoke ( or return back to Coleman...?)
Engine:
Tear down and inspect as usual.
Replace timing chain
Try Cork Gaskets on valve covers. Rubber w/insert only seem to last a day and a half before they start leaking all over the place!
Check valve cover for flatness at head flange.
Suspension / wheel stuff...
Remove Spool and replace with DPI unit. Must get carrier bearings pressed onto DPI.
calculate front suspension geometry... I would like to see the effect of slightly lowering (at frame) and lengthening lower arm (at wheel = more camber). Currently I can only achieve .75º to 1º of camber at front tires. Would like to try 1.5º maybe as much as 1.75º at front tires. Too much will reduce straight line braking effectiveness.... This may also allow a slight reduction in front ride height which would be welcomed. Would like to replace lower arm with spherical rod end at frame, and BJ at spindle. I would also like to get away from using the stock spindle, in favor for a much more stable piece.
Look into what Global West uses for screw in BJ on their tubular lower control arms. This part, if order able from Coleman or lefthander, would be useful for making control arms. Also wish to replace or modify strut rods with rod end mounts at frame. Also would like to mount coil over spring to lower arm, allowing much better ratio and use of lighter spring and better shock. This means replacing upper arm (so shock and spring can pass through). Look into Coleman arms. Check stock arm length. Also, calculate lowering upper arm more than 1" below normal, and also addition of caster.
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Post Event (Mini Nats 2008 @ Thunderhill) Notes:
Rear third link is in! Springs @275 lbs seemed pretty good, not too stiff. Noticed that Chad A's 67 fastback with the Griggs Torque Arm suspension uses 250lb springs.
Front wheel bearings (outer) were shot. Replacing them helped with the brake pedal pulse but not completely. Rotors need to be cleaned up again, and checked for runout... again. Hubs also must be checked for straightness! Would like to have a spare set of front rotors / hats.
With the new rear suspension, the front wants to push mid turn real bad. Turn in feels ok, but the car does not want to stay in a turn. Front tires usually last two events, RF wore a day early. (Tires had one event (SPIR) on them with the old suspension. LF tire seems to no longer have a flat surface across the face - it seems like maybe a radial band broke in the tire or something. Also, LF tire resembles a paper (or ripped cardboard) texture rather than a "rubber" like texture.
I fault the spool in the rear of the car for the pushing of the front end, and the premature and odd front tire wear. With the old leaf spring suspension, the spool worked quite well. I can only assume that with the inboard mounted leaf springs (mounted closer to the center of the car and each other than stock) allowed much less traction to the inside tire, allowing it to slip easier and therefore not push the car straight. I have a DPI platinum LSD half tight to install for next event - which should help this situation a great deal.
Lap times (Thunderhill using full turn 5) in blue group were just over 2:00 per in car video camera. Most laps I timed were between 2:02 and 2:05. This seems a little bit slower than the last event at T-hill with the leaf springs - but it was very hot most of the weekend, the front was pushing real bad, and I was being careful with and learning the rear suspension.
Tried running rear lower trailing arms one inch higher at front mount than rear, with slight convergence. It seemed to require even more care to turn the car. I assume the car still had a roll over steer condition - as the convergence was likely not enough (didn't calculate this, just tried it). I liked the lower trailing arms level at static, and parallel to each other.
Teflon rear seal seems to work great! Get better valve cover gaskets!
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512 To DO for Mini Nats event - End of August 2008 @ Thunderhill
Replace Drive shaft: (old shaft measures 53.5 from center to center of u-joints) 3.200 tab to tab for pumpkin, 1.06250 dia caps
Yoke - SPR 2299
yoke free play with 53.5 shaft - 1.250
Replace Front Brake Rotors:
Front rotor Hat mount = 12 on 8.850
Bolt dia = .310 (shoulder)
Thickness = 1.255 (slightly used) (31.877mm)
OD = 14 (355.06mm)
ID = inner = 9.625 (actual 9.620)
Rotor outer face to wheel mounting surface of hat = 2.4215
Hat OD = 8.135
Annulus = 2.195 = 55.753mm
Lug bolts = .5"
Hub flange = 2.780
wilwood spindle number 6040013
Rotor thickness at hat mount = .274
Keep an eye on Timing Chain Play
Rear Suspension points...
Front spring eye = .5in
spring front center to center = 37in / <3in between mount rails
spring front pivot to center of axle = 22.250 maybe slight bit less
7.5" from axle center to bottom of frame rail - rail is 3" tall
3.250 max between frame rail and edge of tire.
Rear spring bolt .480
Rear spring perch ~ 5in between bolt centers
Front bolt mount locations height = 8.75 and 9.75
axle center from ground measured = 12.25
traction bar mount from ground F = 6 3/8 R = 5 1/8 with 1"block to lower traction bar mount but not axle
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512 Post event notes for July 5/6 at SPIR 2008
Tire pres. hot 28/30
Front brakes chatter real bad. Details: Changed front pads before event from Pagid RS-99 (real old pagid endurance pad) to new Performance Friction 01 pads. Scrubbed rotors with soap/water and then brakleen before installing new pads. First session at track brakes immediately felt much more aggressive, during first stop I noticed some pedal kick back similar to what might be found on a "warped" rotor. As rotor temp increased this kickback became more and more aggressive. Front end shaking and everything. After first session of shaking brakes (hoping it'd work it self out magically) I rechecked all suspension pivot points for wear / slop. All bushings and ball joints are solid. Filed front edge of pads thinking this might help and washed rotors again - no change. "Scuffed" rotors with 3M pad and washed again - no change. Sanded rotors with 100 grit sand paper / cleaned - no change. Swapped old pads back in - no change other than reduced braking performance. Put new pads back in - noticed LF inside pad bottom was able to touch caliper bracket - filed for clearance - no change. Problem progressively got worse throughout the weekend.
Rear springs - rear springs wrap excessively under acceleration - so much that the drive shaft u-joint is able to find zero clearance when pinion rotates up - causing pinion to contact drive shaft at the u-joint cup 'holders'. Tail piece of DS is damaged beyond use.
Drive Shaft - other than above problem - the drive shaft has twisted as evidenced by the drawn marker line no longer straight. DS should be replaced before failure.
Rear U-Joint - of course fells like garbage - likely due to the over extension mentioned in the rear springs paragraph...
Clutch - Tilton three disk clutch - one disk (far rear closest to trans) rivets failed - pieces found their way into the clutch assy and caused clutch to not 'release'. Tilton says this is because the bellhousing is not aligned properly - but was amazed that the clutch had as much time on it as it did (about three years of OT use = 20hrs). Must replace at least one disk - should replace all three.
Oil Leak - one or two of the scavenge lines leak at the oil pump. Also notice rear seal or rear of pan leaking when pulling from my pit stall.
Timing Chain - Noticed when removing clutch assy that timing chain has 2º of slop in it - as evidenced by the fact that I can move the flywheel by hand from one end of the play to the other end - reading the balancer timing marks shows 2º difference. Is this too much? Chain is IWIS German chain with Aussy gears.
Logged Air Fuel Ratio and Front Brake Rotor Temps. See Logger pages for more info.
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512 - To Do for July 5/6 at SPIRReplace or Fix LF rim. Replacement rim arrived.Order new Front tiesReplace rear springs / check shocksInspect motor, adjust valveswire warning sensor to ignition cut offraise op slightlyfix hobbs meter to only run when ign. is on.order new strut rodOrder drill pre lube tool for dry sump pump. Decided
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616 - To Do for July 5/6 at SPIRBuild motorBuild steering linkage.Oil Pan pickup for external sumporder oil pump, lines and fittingsorder oil cooler, oil filterbuild foot box to raise feet at least one inch
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512 - Post Thunder Hill Event Notes (4.14.08)
Oil Pressure Fantastic... May want to raise a little bit more, but pressure was steady.
Tire Pressure 32 Front 30 Rear Measured HOT
Front Right Rim Bent, along with Front right Strut Rod. Rim needs to be replaced, rod needs to be replaced.
Wire Hobbs meter to ignition switch rather than main power - forgot to turn off main power for about an hour and a half - timer continued
Install Brake Bias controller!!! Rear brakes a little too much still
Rear Under-ride bar mount broke (right side), noticed brake hopping under heaving braking with under ride bars removed!
Water Temps great
Oil Temps Great
Weather 85º to 90º
Oil Pressure Warning Light FAULTY - bulb had trouble seating. Return and buy larger dia warning light.
Should wire pressure sensor to MSD white wire to interrupt coil operation in case of <30psi
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512 - To Do - 4/10/08 (April event 4-13/14)
Finish Dry sump lines in car
add key way to crank
add key way and bolt to dry sump pump
glimmer belt tension - check what to do.. able to turn belt 90º really correct?
plumb breather
decide what oil to use this event
pre-lube oil system
Move Starter Solenoid
install 6al (for rev limiter) (find limiter controller)
install oil and rev lights
check front tires
finish painting interior if time
drive shaft re-balance if time
water neck install
water pump bolts
Balance drive shaft...again
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512 - To Do 8/9/05
Engine:
Decide dry or wet sump
Make Headers
Alternator
Belts
hoses
Oil Filter
Clean Oil Lines and Cooler
Choose Setback
Build Mounts
Carb?
Transmission / Clutch:
Cut ears off of bell housing
Make list of questions for Tex Racing
Fluids
Bleeder
New Drive Shaft
Interior
Brake and Clutch Pedals
Choose correct Master Cylinders
Dash Panel
Lower Seats
Rear Window
Brakes
Find / Choose rotors for rear (measure Alcon 4 calipers)
New hard lines front and rear
New braided lines for rear calipers (or at least new banjo ends to match Alcon 4)
Mount Alcon 4 calipers to rear
